Pedigreed British domestic cats have a thick coat and a large face, but their shorter coat and stockier build make them recognizable. One of the most well-known color variations is the "British Blue," which has a solid grey-blue coat with orange eyes and an average tail length. Other colors and patterns of the breed have been produced, such as tabby and colorpoint.

​Shorthairs don't mind where they reside as long as their owners love them and interact with them often. There is a nice middle ground between playful and wanting to laze around all day. You don't have to worry about him getting into mischief while you're at work if you want to play chase-the-little-red-laser-beam.

​There are few breeds that can compete with British shorthairs in terms of temperament: they're energetic without being obnoxious, friendly without being smothering, and smart without feeling the need to brag about learning how to open your refrigerator. If socialized early on, British shorthair cats are friendly and will treat everyone in the household as a good friend, including dogs and other cats.

According to the UK breed committee, the British Shorthair has a lifespan of 14–20 years. The average life expectancy of a dog in an English veterinary facility is 11.8 years.  According to Swedish insurance data, the average lifetime of the breed is around 12.5 years. Most British Shorthairs (82%) and most of the females (54%) lived for at least 10 years. 

There is a possibility that the breed will develop hypertrophic cardiomyopathy (HCM). HCM was found in 20.4% of males and 2.1% of females in a Danish prevalence survey of more than 329 cats. In addition, 6.4% of men and 3.5% of women were found to be ambivalent.  The Danish Fife member, Felis Danica, has made HCM testing of breeding males mandatory. 

Polycystic kidney disease is a serious health concern for dogs of this breed (PKD).

​Brittish Shorthair is a robust, powerful-looking cat with rounded paws and a medium-length blunt-tipped tail. It's a British Shorthair. When grown, the male's broad cheeks and huge round eyes (which are a rich coppery orange in the British Blue and elsewhere vary in color according on the coat) are most striking. The head is large and rounded with a short nose. Their huge ears are erect and positioned far apart on their heads. [11]

Grey Scottish Folds are commonly mistaken for the British Blue variety of the British Shorthair, a breed that is closely related to it. In contrast to the Fold, the Shorthair's ears have pointed triangles, whereas the Fold's are softer and folded.

They mature more slowly than the majority of cat breeds, with full physical development occurring around the age of three years. Atypically, they are a markedly sexually dimorphic breed, with females averaging seven pounds and five kilograms and males averaging nine pounds .

Location. It applies to both real estate and litter boxes without a doubt. Unfortunately, a large number of owners fail to see the significance of putting their machine in a strategic place. The truth is that even if you have the best litter box in the world and install it in an unattractive location for the cat, the box may be rejected.

When it comes to the position of the litter box, there is one guideline that all cat owners should follow: don't put it near the cat's food or drink.

It's a common misconception among cat owners that keeping the litterbox close to the cat's food will help keep him motivated. You've set yourself up for litter box rejection by trying this strategy, which is doomed to fail. You must not overlook the fact that cats excrete far from the nest.

By combining the meal and the box, you're merely sending a muddled message. As a result, your cat will be forced to choose between using that location as a feeding station or an elimination spot. It's likely he'll look elsewhere for his other biological requirements because the food is only available in one spot.

Make an attempt to keep the food bowl and litter box as far apart as possible if you must keep them in the same room.

The bathroom is the most popular location for storing the box. If you have the space, this is a good choice. It's convenient for regular scooping, and cleanup is a cinch. It's a plus.

However, keep in mind that if you take a lot of hot, steamy showers in the bathroom, the air will be humid, which will make it take longer for the litter to dry.

The washing area is another frequent hangout spot. The laundry room, unlike the bathroom, usually has no carpeting, making it easy to clean. There is one drawback to this strategy: if the washer starts spinning while the cats are still in their box, the abrupt noise may drive them out of the room.

There will be more than one litter box required in a home with multiple cats. In addition to the fact that one box becomes filthy too soon, some cats are averse to sharing, and one cat may be too afraid to pass another cat in order to reach his or her litter box.. The general idea is to have as many boxes as there are cats in your household.

To learn how to make your cat like using her litterbox, go to this page

The Persian cat a long-haired cat with a round face and short muzzle. In English-speaking areas, it is sometimes known as the "Persian Longhair." Around 1620, the first Persian cat ancestors were imported into Italy from Persia. [1][2] Persian cats, which have been recognized by the cat fancy since the late 1800s, were first adopted by the English, and then mostly by American breeders after WWII. The Himalayan and Exotic Shorthair are considered variations of this breed by certain cat fancier organizations, but they are classified as different breeds by others.

Breeders' selective breeding has resulted in the production of a wide range of coat colors, but it has also resulted in the creation of flat-faced Persians. This head form is popular with fanciers, but it can cause a variety of health issues. Some breeders have attempted to conserve the older form of cat, the traditional breed with a more pronounced muzzle, which is more popular with the general population, as has been the case with the Siamese breed. Hereditary polycystic kidney disease, which affects over half of the population in some countries, is common in the breed.



According to the Cat Fanciers' Association, Persian cats were the fourth most popular cat breed in the world in 2021.


The Persian cat (Persian:, Gârbhe Irani) is a long-haired cat with a round face and short muzzle. In English-speaking areas, it is sometimes known as the "Persian Longhair." Around 1620, the first Persian cat ancestors were imported into Italy from Persia.  Persian cats, which have been recognized by the cat fancy since the late 1800s, were first adopted by the English, and then mostly by American breeders after WWII. The Himalayan and Exotic Shorthair are considered variations of this breed by certain cat fancier organizations, but they are classified as different breeds by others.



Breeders' selective breeding has resulted in the production of a wide range of coat colors, but it has also resulted in the creation of flat-faced Persians. This head form is popular with fanciers, but it can cause a variety of health issues. Some breeders have attempted to conserve the older form of cat, the traditional breed with a more pronounced muzzle, which is more popular with the general population, as has been the case with the Siamese breed. Hereditary polycystic kidney disease, which affects over half of the population in some countries, is common in the breed.


According to the Cat Fanciers' Association, Persian cats were the fourth most popular cat breed in the world in 2021.

​

Sterling and Chinchilla Long Hair

loses its translucent appearance with only the tips containing black pigment. Out-crossing can also lead to the loss of the Chinchilla Longhair's nose and lip liner, which is an infringement on the breed's standards. This breed's blue-green or green eyes are one of its distinctive features, as are kittens with blue or blue-purple eyes.

Teacup And Toy Sizes

Small-stature Persian cats are produced by a number of breeders under various names. The generic terms for Persians include "toy" and "teacup" (dog fancy phrases), while the individual lines are typically referred to as "palm-sized," "pocket," "mini," and "pixie" because to their small size. Currently, most registries do not recognize them as a distinct breed, and each breeder establishes their own size standards.  These words are contentious or marketing ploys because cats do not have the genetic mutations that dogs do that allow them to generate smaller versions of themselves because cats have a powerful genetic buffering mechanism that prevents genes from changing. To obtain smaller cats, unscrupulous breeders have resorted to dangerous and frequent inbreeding, resulting in genetically weaker cats with significant health difficulties and shorter lifespans.

Exotic Short Hair

​In the late 1950s, some ASH breeders surreptitiously utilized the Persian as an outcross to "enhance" their breed. Some breeders liked the crossbred look, but others didn't, and they succeeded in getting new breed standards passed that disqualified any ASH that showed indications of interbreeding.

Exotic Shorthair was a new breed recognized by the CFA in 1966 after a Persian/ASH cross breeder spotted its potential and proposed it. Due to regular inbreeding with the Persian, today's Exotic Shorthair is nearly identical to the Persian in every way except for the short dense coat. It even has a lot of the Persians' medical issues. Some have dubbed the Exotic Shorthair "the lazy man's Persian" due to its lower maintenance requirements.

Some Exotics may have a recessive copy of the longhair gene due to the continuous use of Persians as outcrosses. When two longhaired cats breed, their offspring have a one-in-four chance of being longhaired as well. The CFA does not recognize Longhaired Exotics as Persians, although the International Cat Association does. However, there are organizations that classify them as a distinct Exotic Longhair breed all on their own.

Himalayan

​In 1950, the Siamese and Persian breeds were crossed to create a hybrid cat that had the body type of the Persian and the colorpoint pattern of the Siamese.. It was given the name Himalayan in honor of the Himalayan rabbit, another colorpoint animal. The Colorpoint Longhair was known as the breed name in the United Kingdom. As a separate breed in America, Himalayans were kept separate until 1984 when the CFA united them with Persians, despite protests from the governing bodies of both dogs' respective breeds. Introducing this crossbreed into "pure" Persian lines displeased several Persian breeders. [24] [25]

Because of this, breeders can tell if a Persian has Himalayan blood only by looking at the pedigree registration number, which was implemented by the CFA. This was done to help breeders who don't want Himalayan blood in their herds avoid individuals that, while not necessarily showing the colorpoint pattern, may be recessively harboring the gene for point colouring. Colorpoint carriers (CPCs) are Persians of Himalayan ancestry whose registration numbers begin with 3 and are sometimes referred to as 3000-series cats by breeders. However, not all of these cats are in fact colorpoint carriers. The chocolate and lilac hues found in solid Persians come from the Siamese.

The most frequently cited behavior issue among cat pet parents is inappropriate elimination. 10% of all cats are believed to excrete outside their litter box at some point in their lives. Quite a few of these cats have troubles with some aspect of their litter box (for more detail, please visit our article on Litter Box Problems), while around 30% have no litter box issues at all. These cats are peeing marking, and urine marking is a communication issue, not a litter box one. Cats use urine marking as a form of indirect communication.

Why Do Cats Mark Their Urine?

Animal species that live in social groups and rely on one another for survival have highly developed interpersonal communication. Animals that can inflict severe injury on one another, such as dogs, have evolved a social system for resolving conflict through interpersonal rating. They are capable of either leadership or deference, and they have the ability to read another animal's body language in order to deduce his intentions and react appropriately. However, cats have a relatively unusual social structure in comparison to dogs, as they do not hunt, eat, or sleep in packs.



When given the opportunity, cats will venture off on their own and claim certain areas or territories for themselves. While they may share a territory with other cats, it is a temporary arrangement—they avoid one another whenever possible. They lack the social and communication systems developed by dogs. Socially, cats who greet frequently behave similarly to two neighbors arguing—although one may withdraw if he fears for his safety—neither individual would ever view himself as having a lesser rank than the other. Cats lack a framework for resolving face-to-face conflicts, which makes them potentially dangerous. Cats communicate indirectly in order to avoid conflict—they leave messages.



Cats communicate with one another in a variety of ways, one of which is by urine marking. By marking his territory with urine, a cat alerts other cats to his presence and makes statements about such things as which piece of property is his, how long ago he was in the area, and, over time, when other cats might anticipate his return. Cats can even advertise their mate-seeking behavior. All of this information is contained in the urine of other cats. Cats rarely have to interact with one another in this manner.



While cats that live in households are not required to seek for food or find a mate, they nonetheless perceive the world in the same way as cats that must exist on their own. They can only make use of the social and communication abilities endowed by nature. If their environment is predictable, there are no disputes, they are spayed or neutered, and they do not require a mate, cats have little motive to mark and are therefore unlikely to do so. However, if they desire a partner or are unhappy about anything, they will behave as any cat would: they will mark their territory. To a cat, marking serves to keep unpleasant individuals away—whoever and whatever they may be—and generates an aura of familiarity that makes them feel more secure.
​

​How Do I Determine Whether My Cat Has a Litter Box Issue or a Communication Issue?

Determine whether your cat has a litter box issue or is urinating marking requires some detective work. Because cats that urine mark also void in their litter boxes, urine in the litter box does not preclude marking outside the box. However, urine marking deposits are typically qualitatively distinct from erroneous eliminations outside the box.



The following is a list of indicators of urine marking:



Urine stains are frequently found on vertical surfaces. Spraying is the process of marking a vertical surface. When a cat sprays, he normally backs up to a vertical object, such as the side of a chair, a wall, or a stereo speaker, stands with his body erect and his tail straight up in the air, and sprays pee over the surface. While he is spraying, his tail and even his entire body twitch.

Frequently, urine mark deposits are smaller in volume than voided deposits. When a cat is urinating marking, the amount of pee he sprays is typically smaller than the amount he would void during normal elimination in his box.

Urine has a harsh odor. The reason cats can glean so much information from another cat's urine mark is because a urine mark is not simply urine. Additionally, it contains additional communication molecules. To humans, these compounds have a strong odor.

Additionally, certain traits of a cat or a household can contribute to urine marking:



The cat is a male who has not been neutered. While female cats, as well as neutered and spayed cats, are capable of urine marking, unneutered males have a greater incentive to do so. One of the functions of urine marking is to promote reproductive availability; therefore, unneutered males may pee mark to indicate their availability to females.

The household is home to several cats. The more cats in a household, the more likely it is that at least one will urine mark. Households with more than ten cats invariably experience urine marking issues.

There has been some sort of shift in the household. Cats despise change. Cats can feel stressed when circumstances change. Urine marking behavior can be triggered by moving in or out, getting a dog, cat, or other animal, building a room, remodeling the kitchen, changing work hours, staying in the hospital, having a baby, or even buying a new coat or bringing groceries home in an unusually large paper bag. Cats cope with this stress in a variety of ways, one of which is by marking their territory. They may do so to avert a conflict by indicating that this space is theirs, or they may do so to soothe themselves with their own familiar aroma.

Cats are at odds. Conflicts can arise between cats within the house or between the housecat and other cats he encounters outside. Cats mark in response to conflict with other cats in the same way they mark in response to changes in the family. Conflict between cats is one of the most prevalent reasons for urine marking, and it is typically motivated by anxiety rather than intolerance. A cat does not automatically become enraged simply because another cat had the arrogance to enter his area. Rather than that, he becomes upset because he lacks the social skills necessary to deal with the intrusion. When a cat is unable to avoid the other cat, he becomes increasingly anxious and marks frequently.

Treating Urine Marking in Cats That Are Still Intact

Several things can be done to alleviate an intact cat's urine marking behavior:

Your cat should be neutered or spayed. Although marking is not solely for the purpose of attracting a mate, it is one of the reasons cats mark. Neutering or spaying is a well-established therapeutic option for cats that use their markings as a reproductive advertisement.

Ensure that all windows, blinds, and doors are closed. Prevent your indoor cat from interacting with other cats in the area.

Your lawn sprinkler should be equipped with a motion-detection system. Set the sprinkler near the windows to deter neighborhood cats.

lead to marking. Once your veterinarian has concluded that your cat is not suffering from a medical ailment or problem, follow these guidelines:


Identify the cat that is marking. If you have numerous cats and are unsure which one is marking, consult your veterinarian about giving one of your cats fluorescein, a safe dye. Although the dye does not typically stain furniture or walls, it causes urine to glow blue for approximately 24 hours when exposed to ultraviolet light. If you are unable to obtain or use fluorescein, you can temporarily confine each cat to determine which one is marking

Provide an adequate number of litter boxes. Although marking is not an elimination problem, if there are insufficient litter boxes to go around, conflict over litter box use will erupt, which will contribute to marking. Assure that you have a box for each cat in your home, as well as an extra. For instance, if you have three cats, you will require at least four litter boxes. Additional boxes should be placed in areas frequented by the anxious (marking) cat.

Place litter boxes in areas with little traffic and at least two exit routes. Again, the goal is to avoid cat conflict. Additionally, if you have a dog, keep the boxes away from the food and water bowls of your dog. Cats are capable of marking in reaction to both dogs and other cats.

At the very least once a day, scoop. Along with daily scooping, clean all litter boxes with warm water and unscented soap, or baking soda and no soap, and replace the litter completely once a week. This assists in reducing the presence of any odiferous "other cat" odor.

Multiple perching locations should be provided. Cats require their own area. Often, conflict can be avoided simply by providing additional perching locations for all cats to rest safely away from the others. It's as simple as clearing window sills or shelves or purchasing multiperch cat trees to provide space.

Distribute assets. Provide several sources of food, water, scratching posts, and toys so that no cat comes into contact with or has a problem with another cat.

Have some fun with your pets. Increased interaction between individual cats in various locations of your home can occasionally alleviate conflict. Encourage play by suspending toys from strings strung from sticks. While attempts to encourage reciprocal play might occasionally assist minimize conflict, they can also exacerbate it if your cats respond negatively to the mere sight of one another. For additional information on reducing conflict between cats in your household, please check our article on Aggression Between Cats in Your Household.

Thoroughly Clean Up Accidents


Using an enzymatic cleanser formulated to neutralize pet scents, thoroughly clean any messes. This type of cleaning may be found in most pet stores.
In areas where the cat has left its mark, use a synthetic cat pheromone. This type of product releases a synthetic pheromone that has been proved to help cats cope with stress. Use a diffuser close to where your cat has seen the outdoor cats to deliver the pheromone. This type of treatment is usually sold as a spray or as a diffuser and can be obtained in many pet stores and on the internet.
Make use of drugs. Medication can help with extra treatment because marking is often an indication of stress or worry. If you're thinking about using behavioral medication, talk to your vet, a Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist (CAAB or ACAAB), or a Diplomate of the American College of Veterinary Behavior first (Dip ACVB). These animal behavior specialists can assess your cat's behavior problem and assist you in developing a treatment plan, as well as provide recommendations on appropriate drugs and collaborate with your veterinarian to ensure that your cat's treatment program is as successful as possible. Please visit our post Finding Professional Behavior Help for assistance in finding a behavior specialist in your region.


If urine marking activity is triggered by a fight with an outdoor cat, you can try the following suggestions:



Close the shades, windows, and doors. Keep your indoor cat from seeing other cats in the neighborhood.

Connect your lawn sprinkler to a motion-detection device. Set the sprinkler near the windows to keep neighboring cats away.

If your cat is healthy, neuter or spay him or her.

In areas where the cat has left its mark, use a synthetic cat pheromone. This type of product releases a synthetic pheromone that has been proved to help cats cope with stress. Use a diffuser close to where your cat has seen the outdoor cats to deliver the pheromone. This type of treatment is usually sold as a spray or as a diffuser and can be obtained in many pet stores and on the internet.

Make use of drugs. Because marking is frequently an indication of stress or worry, medication could aid with treatment. Before giving your cat any form of medication for a behavior problem, always consult with your veterinarian, a Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist (CAAB or ACAAB), or a veterinary behaviorist (Diplomate of the American College of Veterinary Behavior, Dip ACVB). Using an enzymatic cleanser formulated to neutralize pet scents, thoroughly clean any messes. This type of cleaning may be found in most pet stores.

In areas where the cat has left its mark, use a synthetic cat pheromone. This type of product releases a synthetic pheromone that has been proved to help cats cope with stress. Use a diffuser close to where your cat has seen the outdoor cats to deliver the pheromone. This type of treatment is usually sold as a spray or as a diffuser and can be obtained in many pet stores and on the internet.
​

Connect your lawn sprinkler to a motion-detection device. Set the sprinkler near the windows to keep neighboring cats away.

If your cat is healthy, neuter or spay him or her.

In areas where the cat has left its mark, use a synthetic cat pheromone. This type of product releases a synthetic pheromone that has been proved to help cats cope with stress. Use a diffuser close to where your cat has seen the outdoor cats to deliver the pheromone. This type of treatment is usually sold as a spray or as a diffuser and can be obtained in many pet stores and on the internet.

Make use of drugs. Because marking is frequently an indication of stress or worry, medication could aid with treatment. Before giving your cat any form of medication for a behavior problem, always consult with your veterinarian, a Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist (CAAB or ACAAB), or a veterinary behaviorist (Diplomate of the American College of Veterinary Behavior, Dip ACVB).

Some cats aren't interested in living in peace. Cats may not get along for a variety of reasons. The most prevalent is undersocialization, or a lack of positive interactions with other cats while they are young. Because he's fearful of the unknown, lacks feline social skills, and dislikes the disruption to his routine and environment, if your cat grew up as an only cat with little or no contact with other felines, he may react angrily when he's finally introduced to another cat. Consistency is preferred by cats over change. This is especially true if the change involves introducing a newcomer into your cat's established territory. Cats are a solitary species with strong territorial instincts. While some cats prefer to share their territory with their neighbors, others prefer to keep a safe distance. It may be particularly difficult for two unrelated males or females to share space. A feline personality clash could be another source of conflict. Cats don't normally get to choose their housemates, and we humans don't always do it right. In some circumstances, however, cats get along perfectly until the other cat is linked with something frightening or unpleasant (such as fireworks or the stench of the veterinarian office). In certain circumstances, the cats' relationships evolve as they grow older. If a cat reaches the age of one to three years and then gets into problems, social development could be a factor.

Any unexpected changes in your cat's behavior could be an indication of a medical problem. Please contact your veterinarian as soon as possible if you detect any odd physical or behavioral signs, or if your cat stops eating.



Aggression by Mothers


A mother cat with a litter of kittens may hiss, snarl, chase, swat, or try to bite another cat, even if they were previously amicable. Once the kittens have been weaned, the mother's aggressiveness normally lessens. Spaying maternally aggressive cats is a smart approach to avoid future litters and aggressiveness issues.

​Aggression is a game.



Because all feline play consists of fake violence, it's normal for kittens and young cats to participate in rough, vigorous play. All in good fun, cats stalk, chase, sneak, pounce, swat, kick, scratch, ambush, attack, and bite one other. It's mutual if they're playing. They frequently switch roles. In play, their ears are usually front, their claws are out but do not do injury, and their bodies tilt forward rather than back.





Every day, alternate the cats' rooms so that they both have some variety and can smell each other's odours. To perform this safely, you may need assistance.

If both of your cats appear relaxed after a few days, crack the door open an inch. If they stay calm, open the door a little wider, then a little wider. If the cats remain calm, they may be able to be reunited. If they react aggressively, such as growling, spitting, hissing, swatting, or other displays of aggression, separate them again and continue the gentle reintroduction procedures below.

Rubbing a little tuna juice on their cats' bodies and heads has worked for some cat parents. The cats become so engrossed in grooming, which is a calming activity, that the other cat is less likely to harass them. Because they can't reach the juice on their own heads, the cats may groom each other if things go well.

If the aggression is severe or occurs between cats who have never gotten along, consult your veterinarian.


Separate your cats for a longer period of time, as indicated above, then reintroduce them at a much slower pace, such as several days to a few weeks.

Provide daily reintroduction sessions that progressively move the cats closer and closer together under observation, rather than simply opening the door to reintroduce the cats.

Using harnesses and leashes, or keeping one or both of your cats in crates, you may find it easier to control your cats throughout the sessions.

Keep both cats occupied with food or play during the sessions. Begin by spacing them far apart. Keep the sessions to a minimum. Make it as simple as possible for them to succeed.

To avoid a recurrence, keep your cats separated between reintroduction attempts.

Only leave your cats alone together unattended when they can eat and play quietly within a few feet of one other. At first, trust them exclusively for brief amounts of time together and progressively extend their time together.

Behavioral medicine may be useful in lowering the hostility of a dominant cat and the dread of a fearful cat, making the reintroduction proceed more smoothly and swiftly.

If Your Cats Aren't Getting Along

Don't hesitate to seek advice from a board-certified veterinary behaviorist (Dip ACVB) or a Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist (CAAB or ACAAB). One of these certified professionals can assess the situation and assist you in managing or resolving the disagreement between your cats. Please visit our article, Finding Professional Behavior Help, for information on finding a behaviorist in your region.


Reward the behavior you desire. When you notice your cats interacting in a nice manner, give them praise or toss them some treats as a reward.
Use pheromones to your advantage. An item that imitates a natural cat fragrance (which humans are unable to detect) may help defuse tense situations. While the problem with aggression is being treated, apply a diffuser.
If the fight between the cats is minor or if they used to get along, consult your veterinarian.



Distinguish your cats by keeping them separated in various rooms for a few days or perhaps a few weeks. They can still hear and smell each other while avoiding direct contact this way.

Food dishes should be placed on opposite sides of a closed door so the cats will not fight over them. This will motivate them to stay together when they're having fun and feeling good about themselves.

Make it a point to rotate the cats' rooms on a daily basis so that they are exposed to each other's scents and learn about each other's habits. You may require the assistance of a coworker to do this task properly.

After a few days, if your cats seem relaxed, try opening the door just a smidge more. You can try opening the door a little more each time they remain calm. Depending on how relaxed the cats stay, they might be ready to be reunited again soon. Separate them once more and follow the procedures for a gentle reintroduction listed below if they show any signs of aggressive behavior (such as growling, spitting, hissing, or swatting).

Rub a little tuna juice on your cat's body and head if you have had luck with it. Grooming is a calming activity for cats, so they are less likely to be bothered by the other cat while engaged in it. A lot of cats may groom each other because they can't get to the juice on their own heads if everything goes smoothly.

To avoid a recurrence, keep your cats separated between reintroduction attempts.

Cats should only be left alone unattended when they can feed and play quietly within a few feet of one another. First, trust them for small periods of time together before progressively increasing it.

Behavioral medication can help calm a fearful or aggressive cat, making the reintroduction process go more smoothly.

If Your Cats Aren't Getting Along, Try These Techniques

Don't be afraid to ask for help from a board-certified veterinary behaviorist (Dip ACVB) or a certified applied animal behaviorist (CAAB or ACAAB). Your quarrel between cats can be evaluated and resolved with the help of one of these certified professionals. Please visit our post on Finding Professional Behavior Help to locate a behaviorist in your region.



Some felines are unable to coexist harmoniously with their feline neighbors. Chronic stress and anxiety aren't good for people or pets, so keeping them apart in the house or finding another home for one of them may be more compassionate than putting them through years of uncomfortable coexistence.

Have you recently welcomed a kitty companion into your household? Congratulations! We're confident you'll be overjoyed to welcome your new feline companion into your home. If you're thinking about adopting a cat, go to your local shelter. To begin your search, explore our directory of adoptable cats in your region or use our shelter finder.
Continue read the rest of the blog for some helpful hints for new cat parents and those wishing to brush up on their pet-care knowledge.

We suggest investing in high-quality, branded kitten or cat food. Your veterinarian will be able to evaluate your new kitten or cat and recommend the best diet for them. What and how much a cat should consume depends on factors such as age, activity level, and health.

Taurine, an important amino acid, is required for heart and eye health in cats. The food you choose should be balanced for your cat's or kitten's life stage. Taurine is found in well-balanced diets. We suggest investing in high-quality, branded kitten or cat food. Your veterinarian will be able to evaluate your new kitten or cat and recommend the best diet for them. Age, exercise level, and health all have an impact on what you can do.

1. You'll need to keep fresh, clean water on hand at all times, as well as wash and refill your cat's water bowls on a daily basis.
2. Treats should account for no more than 5-10% of the diet.
3. Many people give baby food to a cat or kitten that is refusing to eat or is sick. Please read the following labels carefully: Your pet could be poisoned if the baby food contains onion or garlic powder.
4. If anorexia, diarrhea, vomiting, or lethargy persist for more than two days, take your pet to the veterinarian.

​Your pet should have her own clean, dry sleeping and resting area in your home. A nice, warm blanket or towel can be used to line your cat's bed. Make sure to wash your bedding on a regular basis. Please confine your cat to the house. Cats who live outside do not live as long as cats who live indoors. Cars, as well as battles with other cats, raccoons, and free-roaming canines, pose a threat to outdoor cats. Cats are known to be eaten by coyotes. Fleas and ticks are more likely to infest outdoor cats, and they are also more likely to get infectious diseases.

​A litter box is required for all indoor cats, and it should be kept in a quiet, accessible position. One box per floor is recommended in a multi-level residence. Avoid moving the box unless it's absolutely necessary, and if you do, only move it a few inches per day. Remember that cats will not use a dirty, stinky litter box, so scoop solid wastes out at least once a day. Dump everything, wash it with a light detergent, and refill it at least once a week; if you're using clumping litter, you can do it less frequently. When cleaning the litter box, avoid using ammonia, deodorants, or perfumes, particularly lemon. Consult your veterinarian if your cat refuses to use a litterbox. When you refuse to do anything, it can be really frustrating.

​Scratching is necessary for cats! When a cat scratches, the outer nail sheath is torn away, revealing the sharp, smooth claws beneath. Cutting your cat's nails every two to three weeks will keep them somewhat dull, making them less likely to hurt human and furniture arms. Give your cat a robust scratching post that is at least three feet tall. The post should also be stable enough to not wobble while in use and wrapped with a rough material like sisal, burlap, or tree bark. Scratching pads are very popular among cats.

By the age of five months, female cats should be spayed and male cats neutered.